SEBILE Fast Sinking Magic Swimmer 190 FSK

Model	Size	Weight	Type	Casting / Trolling	Line Test
Magic Swimmer 190 FSK	7-1/2" / 190mm	3 oz / 90g	Fast Sinking	4 to 8 ft	20 to 50 lb

Bassdozer says: "The hottest lures for striped bass fishing in New England, the northeast and mid-Atlantic states in 2010 has become the SEBILE Stick Shadd 182 and 155 in Fast Sinking (FSK) and Sinking (SK) models, as well as the SEBILE Fast Sinking Magic Swimmer 190 FSK."

The hottest SEBILE lures for striped bass are the Stick Shadd 182 (top), Magic Swimmer 190 FSK (center), Stick Shadd 155 (bottom).

How to Fish the SEBILE Fast Sinking Magic Swimmer

If someone asked you what is the number one action that fish go for, keep in mind the answer is often a falling action, and the Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking model has got it built right in - a beautiful swimming/falling action on the drop.

As a result of their unique and heavy balance, the Magic Swimmer FSK will swim while sinking without reeling. This gives you something totally new and unique for a jointed hard bait, as you can use the Fast Sinking with a regular, steady reeling and it will swim amazingly like the original Magic Swimmer swimbait - but you can also stop reeling to let the Fast Sinking model riggle or swim beautifully on the fall!

The Fast Sinking Magic Swimmer is a long distance casters too, thanks to its heavy body weight.

Swimming on the Fall

As soon as your Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking hits the water, simply close your bail or engage the reel to lock the spool and let your line come semi-tight. Don’t leave slack line as that may cause the Magic Swimmer to sink head down and the tail hook may foul the line. But simply by having the resistance of a semi-tight line, you will provide for a level descent as your Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking alternates in a right/left swimming motion during the drop or fall. There's nothing you need to do here except keep a semi-tight line and have the rod ready to set the hook. You may have bites at any time during the fall, before you ever turn the reel handle, from the moment the lure hits the water until it sinks down to reach the level you want to begin retrieval. This falling, swimming movement is an action that no other hard baits really have, and you can simply alternate a reeling and pause phase to have your lure going up (as you reel) and down (when you pause), but swimming constantly all the time, even on the pause it swims to attract fish. Simply reel the Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking along for a number of feet, and then suddenly stop reeling for a number of seconds. You don't use the rod, just the reel to do this. Simply keep the rod in position for a good hookset throughout the retrieve. You'll get bit most often during the pause as the lure keeps swimming down. That provocative falling/swimming action has proven to be exceptionally effective - and so easy to do.

Speed-Reeling

This is simply turbo-charging the tactic described above. Do the same thing, use a semi-tight line to let the lure sink/swim to the level where you want to start, and then reel speedily so the lure suddenly bursts up and away. This will attract and excite any predator fish in the immediate vicinity. Then just as quickly stop. The sudden halt is what triggers an impulsive, powerful reaction strike. Depending on depth and distance, you may be able to repeat this a couple times, keeping in mind that as it is reeled, the lure will rise higher. You can only speed-reel for a limited number of short bursts during which time your plug will rise higher and higher up in the water column. Once the lure has been speed-reeled up higher than the point you want, then switch to using the semi-tight line tactic to let it descend on the sink/swim again until the plug descends deep enough again so you may start another series of speed-reeling bursts all over again.

Quartering a Current

To quarter a current is to cast the Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking so it lands approximately forty-five degrees upcurrent. Then let the force of the current swing it around as it drifts back down, reeling at first in order to maintain a semi-loose line while the lure is still upcurrent from you. Note when we discussed the previous tactic - casting into non-moving water, we espoused that you maintain a semi-tight line. In moving water, we recommend a semi-loose line. They're not the same thing. In non-moving water, a semi-tight line will metabolize the lures built-in swimming momentum. Whereas in moving water, the water flow energizes the lure's swimming momentum, so a semi-loose line is needed to allow that. A semi-tight line in moving water would work against and negate the natural sinking/swimming motion that is so magical with these lures.

Truly, the exact angle and spot where you drop your cast really needs to be calibrated (depending on current speed and depth) so the lure swings down into prime position when it swims directly in front of you - as that is the key place and exact instant for a strike. The heavier nature of the Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking lets you drop the cast in at the precise spot with greater accuracy. As the current sweeps the Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking back down at you, it will sink down while swimming along. You don't need to do anything to impart action - the swimming is all built into the lure itself. You do need to be reeling in just a little line, maintaining a semi-loose line so the lure will maintain a level posture as it continues to sink and swim on the drift down.. If you let the line go too slack, the lure will angle nose-down and may foul the line with its tail hook. Nor do you want to wind in line at too fast a pace, since that will defeat the lure's natural sinking/swimming action as it moves along with the current. That portion of the cast is the set-up for what happens next, meaning as as the lure comes perpendicular to you (directly in front of you), there is a brief instant when water flow pressure neutralizes and overrides gravity's downward force, and your Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking achieves an almost neutral buoyancy as it floats and swirls most naturally. That is often the moment when the connection is made between fisherman and fish, when the lure is no longer drifting down, but floating freely right in front of you, buffeted by the swirling current. The Magic Swimmer Fast Sinking is fairly neutral for an instant there, like an astronaut in a weightless environment! What happens the next instant is the lure switches over to being downcurrent from you. It does an about-face 180 turn and starts rising in the current. This sudden rise is a strike trigger. You can't really do it with the rod tip or with reel and line manipulation. It is only the current and the dead-drifting swing tactic that makes such strike trigger moments possible. If there is any fish-holding boulder, hump, drop-off, shell bed, rise, ledge, sand bar or whatever may hold fish, you really want to orchestrate the instant of the 180 turn-around and rise to happen right there in front of you. Once you understand and perfect this, you will realize that you do not catch many fish on the part of the retrieve when the lure is coming down current. That part of the drift is only used to set up and prepare for when the plug gets directly in front of you, and that's when you do your catching - upon the point of the weightless equilibrium, turn-around and rise. Nor will you get as many strikes once the lure drifts past that point and swims down current from you. You will get most of your strikes directly in front of you. So you must strive to drop your cast at the exact angle and spot upcurrent that lets the lure sink/swim down to the depth and distance where it's exactly perfect in front of you where fine, strong fish are feeding in the current. if you ca n do that, you are going to catch more fish than you ever believed possible with the Fast Sinking Magic Swimmer.

Bassdozer says: "Taking the tail treble off and using the Magic Swimmer with only the front belly treble helps reduce tangles and does not upset the lure's balance or swimming action. It makes for a more dependable connection when you hook a very large, strong fish as well, because the part of the body between the front nose and the belly hook is the strongest single piece in a Magic Swimmer. For big fish, fast current or rough water, replace the belly treble with one at least a size larger using an oversized split ring. Using the lure this way, with no tail hook, it doesn't really affect the number of hook-ups, and makes it easier to unhook fish prior to release."